Street trackers are a regular feature here at The Kneeslider and for good reason, they give your street bike the appearance of a dirt track racer and quite a few folks like that look. Phil Little has introduced the SXR Street Tracker conversion kit and it’s pretty slick, but beyond the good looks and straight forward bolt on conversion process, the best part is the pricing. If you’re used to seeing some of the other street tracker conversions out there, you already know the price might keep you from going all out with alloy tanks, upside down forks and everything else. Phil decided to make a great looking kit you can afford.
Phil sent me some background on the whole kit and how it came about.
Here’s Phil to explain:
About 1985 I started fabricating fiberglass parts for race bikes. Demand prompted expansion of my “Omar’s Dirt Track Racing†product line. In 1988 I developed the 650 Yamaha street tracker. Sales took off and the street tracker became very popular around the world. It sold well because it allowed bike builders to purchase a cheap host bike and modify it with street tracker parts into something unusual for under $3500 on average.
Between 1988 and 2008, I’d get calls from Sportster owners wanting street tracker kits too. In 2008 I sold off the Yamaha Street Tracker line and now, with my new company name, Phil Little Racing.com, I crafted up the SXR Sportster Street Tracker based on the 1972 Harley XR. The build and parts creation spanned six months from January to June of ‘09. Because it is a ‘departure’ bike, I think it might be of interest to your readers.
My goal was to style a street tracker which was eye-pleasing but priced as low as possible. Another company has been doing Sportster street tracker make-overs for years but they use exotic components which drives the price out of reach for most builders. You’ll see my kit (or just parts) uses stock Harley parts as much as possible-headlight, 19†front wheel on the rear, forks etc.
Another cost savings for buyers is something I learned from the Yamaha tracker. My Yamaha parts were made in white assuming the builder would paint to their tastes. I should have made them in yellow. The new SXR body parts are shipping in appropriate colors; orange, white and black. This will save a builder about $400-no painting required. Another trick learned from the Yamaha-the SXR Sportster is truly ‘bolt-on.’ You buy the parts and bolt them on with the supplied hardware-no fabricating, machining, drilling, cutting, etc. are needed. (Seat rails on 1994+ models do have to be cut off). The only thing recommended is to sand the body edges. Potential buyers should consider the graphics kit because it will give their project a more ‘finished’ look. An owner can do a bike make-over in a couple of weekends plus a bit more time if they are going to paint some parts (shock springs etc.)
The tank and tail fender fit Sportsters back to 1980, (frames where shocks mount on the end of the swing arm.) Side covers will fit Sportsters from 1982-on and the XR1000. All other parts will fit Sportsters from 1986-on. If your readers don’t have an old Sportster this is a great time to buy one. They should be able to get an Evo Sportster for around $3500 to $3800-(as low as $2500 in the Bay Area I’m told). Look for one with body damage!
The building community will have comments I would like to hear. I know, I’m gonna get, “hey your front number panel looks like a Cyclops.†I had the option to make a big bucks panel with high zoot lights but I opted for an economical panel instead. I am also going to get whacked for a fiberglass tank and with good cause. It is well known that oxygenated (corn based) ethanol (gasohol) fuel destroys uncoated fiberglass tanks. It dissolves the fiberglass resin from the inside of uncoated tanks and deposits the resin in carbs orifices and valves guides. When the engine cools, the resin solidifies. Carb passages plug and the valves hang up. Engine disassembly and cleaning is the only remedy…a really bad day! Ethanol also permeates through the tank wall and lifts high buck paint jobs. Several years ago we stumbled on an interior coating and an application process which eliminates all problems with ethanol in fiberglass tanks.
This is a bolt on, affordable kit with great looks, … well, I’m not crazy about the front number panel but Phil already mentioned that. The tank retails for under $500 and the rear tail fender with LED taillight also is under $500. The tank is coated to prevent erosion caused by ethanol in pump fuel. Also included is a spacer kit to adapt a 19†front Sportster wheel to replace the stock 16†rear wheel. No painting, either! For those of you who are comfortable with a wrench but would rather not break out the spray gun, this kit works. An assembly manual that steps you through the conversion process is $20.00, an online free download version is coming but it’s not there yet.
If you have a Sportster just waiting for the street tracker treatment, you’re ready to go, or you can pick up a good used bike, there are lots of used Sportsters for sale right now at great prices, then add the kit and some quality garage time. Either route, it costs less than previous kits and you end up with a very distinctive Sportster. Pretty neat.
Head over to Phil Little Racing and check it out.
Link: Phil Little Racing
David says
I was impressed with the XS650 stuff and this looks to be the same high quality. Styling is very good and the price sounds great. These street trackers are popular for the standard upright riding position and the style makes a nice little hotrod indeed.
Tin Man 2 says
I like the buy it a piece at a time deal, You can pick and choose only the parts that fit your idea of the “look”. So many used Sportys out there, great raw material.
Joe says
Just curious Paul, you all mentioned its a very cheap kit but do you have a number for all of it together? Granted, its a piece-by-piece kit, but if i wanted a say… ’01 1200 sportster to look more or less exactly like the one above, how much would that put me back?
Woodman West says
Wow, Buell should have built this bike. I would be first in line!
Phoebe says
I love it. That’s a Harley I would ride the crap out of =)
kneeslider says
Joe, follow the link at the end of the article for complete pricing, you can download the price sheet and a full color brochure.
Woodman West, you don’t have to wait for someone else to build this bike or stand in line, you can do it yourself with the kit.
Phoebe, sounds like you’re another one that likes the look.
Greybeard says
I’m concerned about the 19″ rear, perhaps unjustifiably.
I see Dunlops on the model but what other tires are available?
Stock rim width dictates fairly narrow rubber too.
Plus, the 19″ rim & longer shock combo needs a step-stool, no?
taxman says
looks like all the parts together add up to about $3300 to get what you see in the photos. i think that is pretty reasonable. and if you can find a donor bike for what he says ($2500-3500), your in under $7k for a pretty nice bike.
i’m really curious how much this set-up would weigh. i have a sportster and enjoy it, but i really feel like it needs to loose a lot of weight.
Al says
“Plus, the 19″ rim & longer shock combo needs a step-stool, no?”
Sportsters are low to begin with — compared to other “standard” bikes. Then the SXR seat is rather thin. So the height increase shouldn’t be a problem for most riders. I think the stock Sportster (all Harleys, actually) looks like its springs are worn out and its ass is dragging anyway. If I were to do nothing else, I’d do the 19″ wheel conversion. Besides, it would also quicken the steering.
Gitan says
Pretty good looking ! Until you see it from face.
It could be much more agressive with 2 small spots in the panel – in the bottom line or displaced like confederate does.
Apart of this little thing, I LOVE it !
Matt in NC says
I love it! I can’t say I’d use that bar and mirror setup myself, but that’s what’s great about bikes and custom parts, ain’t it!
Al says
Or get your own number plate and cut whatever holes you want for headlights. Or forget a number plate entirely.
Phoebe says
Paul: yup, I’m very fond of street trackers =)
Gazberzu says
What’s the miror for ? Look @ your wrist ?
todd says
Neat, nice and simple. Isn’t this how motorcycling is supposed to be?
-todd
Jacquie says
I love the look. But how do you fix the handling of the stock sportster frame.
todd says
You put better rear shocks and a fork brace on it.
-todd
John says
Jacquie ,have you ever ridin a Sportster?I have owned one and felt it handled great,and I’ve never read any handling complaints.
frozen prairie says
Greybeard,
The switch to 19″ rear wheel from 16″ won’t raise the seat height much. The 16er has a much higher profile. The 21″ front knobby from my mx bike and the 18″ rear are almost the same height, within about 1/2″ to 3/4″, certainly not a 3″ difference.
I think the bike is a beauty, by the way.
Phoebe says
I don’t really know the nuances between the different Sportster models…would this also work for the 883 models?
Paul Yak says
Hi,
It might be the fact that I’m pretty good with tools/workshop stuff. But I personally think that $3,000+ is quite expensive for what amounts to a few sheets of fibreglass laid over the right shaped mould. I know to do it yourself wouldn’t be that easy, but I think I could and the cost would not be more than $1,200.
The bike does look great tho, and if you can’t do this work yourself, you don’t have ANY choice except buying the Kits out there.
This is only MY Personal Opinion!
Tin Man 2 says
Paul Yak, +1, You are correct, After making the 1st mold, Fiberglass is not that expensive to produce. I guess if we dont like it we dont have to buy it. Also I get Graffics made all the time for alot less then this $129 price, But again if I can do it for less,Why dont I go into the Bussiness? This man maintains a web site, keeps inventory,designs and manufactures parts that we like, I think he is allowed to make a profit, We really dont know his total expenses!
steve w says
Al was correct on the wheel and suspension change. When the 883 spec class for road race and dirt track was in place few chassis changes were allowed. One of the things everyone did was the rear shock and wheel change. It loaded the front end more and helped to derake the front end, allowing it to turn into corners much better. I watched these converted bikes run several times and they were quite impressive. I watched them run at Daytona in ’96 and they ran pretty good considering they were 883’s. A lot of riders really liked the class because even though it wasn’t the fastest, the racing was close and the bikes were heavy enough to prepare for faster machinery down the road. I love these trackers!
PeteP says
This is what the XR1200 should have been.
kneeslider says
Paul Yak,
“… I think I could and the cost would not be more than $1,200.”
The distance between “I could” and “I did” is so very, very far.
PeteP says
For those sceptical of the 19″ rear wheel, read Cycle World’s “Web Surfer Special” article. The wheel can be widened by Kosman for about $450.
Then mount up wider dirt tack rubber, and voila.
James says
300 $ for the rear wheel kit
990 $ for tank and fender
745 $ for the exhaust
3000-6000 $ for the new used sport I just decided to buy…
5035-8035 $ for the xr1200 done right! I like it!
MadDogXR says
A cobbled up Sportster with an ugly front-end?
PeteP 10.26.09 at 7:03 am
This is what the XR1200 should have been.